Mombasa: Tasting the Coast of Kenya
mombasa
the oldest city in kenya
arriving at night after a 5-hour train ride from nairobi
with a humid air that reminded me of my childhood walking along the beaches in florida
letting me know again that this was a familiar place
i met khawaii, my mombasa cooking host, the next day outside of a shopping mall
on nyali road
before heading to kongowea market
one of the largest in mombasa
with an abundance of every ingredient you'll need
sellers ready to bargain
while walking through one set of stalls
i came across a staple that i was secretly looking for
mabenda, okra, which i have a deep love for
and that i bought and later fried and devoured within 10 minutes
khawaii and i decided on samaki wa kupaka
a grilled fish with coconut sauce and rice dish
usually made with tafi fsh
but she substituted red snapper as the fishermen were out of tafi
my caribbean heart was just as happy with the substitution
having an entire fish, with head and tail intact,
how it should always be served
had my stomach and taste buds ready
i was given a kanga, a beautifully colored cloth, to wrap around my waist
khawaii explaining that women often wore it while cooking
and the prepping began
as the charcoal and grill were set out for the fish
ginger and garlic paste
and coconut milk
i came to understand
are essential ingredients in kenya's coastal cuisine
i also got to use one of my now favorite tools, the mbuzi, to grate the coconut we needed
once I got the flicking of my wrist right
the process of grating became a meditation
gone are the days of cutting your fingers on a box grater
making kachori and viyaz kari, two versions of fried potatoes in chickpea batter
with an accompanying tamarind sauce
would serve as our appetizers
coconut milk carefully made by hand using a kifumbu, a braided strainer
would later serve as the base for our sauce
and the liquid bath for our rice
a few hours later
our meal was ready
i would spend much of my time in mombasa mostly eating and walking around
traveling to wasini island for a snorkeling trip
tasting the salty blue-gem colored water of the indian ocean
and eating more seafood provided by the locals
i couldn't leave the coast
without trying the breakfast platter
prepared by the chefs behind the @mombasa_food_you_crave_ instagram page
mbaazi, pigeon peas in coconut milk
mahamri, fried puff bread similar to puff puff from west africa
keema cutlets and kebabs, fried minced meat croquettes
samosas, fried pastry with a savory filling
viazi and bhajia, two different spiced fried potatoes
a glorious breakfast platter of fried doughs, potatoes, meat, falafel and beans
that i have thought about everyday since
and has me certain that i will be returning back to kenya
***SPECIAL NOTE***
If you find yourself in Mombasa, be sure to book a cooking experience with Khawaii and let your taste buds be blessed!